On Nov. 26, after undergoing a grueling series of 14 cosmetic
procedures?-- from the head to the buttocks, 24-year-old
freelance fashion writer and jewellery dealer Hao Lulu finally
finished her long, drawn-out "man-made beauty project" that cost
300,000 yuan (about US$37,500). Undoubtedly, Hao's publicity stunt
underscores the increasing popularity of cosmetic surgeries in
today's China where a growing white-collar class is becoming more
and more concerned with physical appearance.
Nevertheless, it's only one side of the story. In fact, the
growing popularity of plastic surgery has led to unlicensed
practitioners selling their services for lower prices. According to
statistics made by the China National Consumers' Association
(CNCA), during the past decade, there have been over 200,000
malpractice lawsuits filed by patients because of botched
operations. Face lifting has become a bona fide beauty
killer in China.
According to Prof. Zhou Gang who performed some of Hao's
cosmetic procedures, originally, China's face-lifting industry
started at the end of the 1940s and the beginning of the 1950s.
During the first 20 years or so, plastic operations were by and
large confined to wound treatments such as skin-graft after burns.
The idea of beauty treatment wasn't introduced into China until the
late 1970s. However, only actors and actresses with an official
letter of introduction in hand were eligible to have cosmetic
surgery then.
"In 1979, at Beijing Plastic Surgery Hospital I underwent my
first double eyelid surgery procedures. The operation cost 40 yuan
(about US$5), which was equal to an ordinary worker's monthly wage
at that time," Zhou recalled. "Aesthetic cosmetic beauty surgery
formally broke away from plastic surgery in the 1990s, which
promoted a booming face lifting industry nationwide
afterwards."
Currently, there are three kinds of institutions engaged in face
lifting in China, said Ass. Prof. Feng Lizhe, another expert who
performed plastic surgery for Hao. "They include: plastic surgery
affiliated to public hospitals, contract plastic surgery in some
hospitals, and private beauty parlors scattered everywhere."
According to Feng, most cosmetologists in public hospitals
possess superb medical skills and have a long record of performing
plastic operations. However, usually they consider it beneath their
dignity to perform small cosmetic surgery like double eyelid
reconstruction and narrowing of the nose.
On the other hand, many beauticians from street beauty parlors,
who lack necessary professional skills, offer double eyelid surgery
at low prices but without authorized permits. This is the root
cause of so many malpractice lawsuits being filed by patients.
Mostly, the big price differential between home-made and
imported cosmetic materials decides the colossal profits of the
face lifting industry, Zhou said. For instance, based on different
materials, the cost of narrowing the nose ranges from 1,000 to
7,000 yuan, with a price difference of 6,000 yuan. In fact, the
purchasing price of home-made silica gel used for narrowing the
nose is usually 10 yuan or so a packet, but the after-tariff price
of imported silica gel has soared up to 3,000 yuan a packet.
Despite the tremendous price difference, consumers would rather
buy imported high-quality silica gels. This material problem stems
from backward manufacturing techniques. To put it in a nutshell,
over a long period of time domestic industrial enterprises haven't
invested much in research or development of cosmetic material
manufacture.
Overall, China's face lifting industry has made great headway
over the previous decade. However, compared with the same trade
overseas, there is still a long way to go in services, trade
regulation, etc.
To be quite frank, face-lifting is a service sector, Feng said.
First, safety is of prime importance, otherwise the trade's
reputation will be marred. Second, it's necessary to let customers
enjoying plastic service feel as comfortable as staying in a hotel.
Third, pre and post-surgery services must be provided to enhance
the exchange between medical staff and patients.
In China today, surgical face lifting is not being exclusively
enjoyed by actors and actresses as in the past, Zhou said.
Actually, the past decade saw a year-by-year rising tendency
among white-collar employees and university students who underwent
cosmetic operations. According to Zhou, first, white-collar workers
and some students from well-off families are able to afford
expensive plastic surgery. Second, improved physical appearance can
give white-collar ladies an edge on fierce rivals, and increase the
bargaining power of students in their hunt for jobs. Third, in any
case, facelifts are still something new to ordinary Chinese people.
Comparatively speaking, white-collar employees and university
students have a strong ability to enjoy things that are novel.
(China.org.cn by Shao Da and Daragh Moller, December 10,
2003)