An outsider's impression of Tibet
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Like so many other people in the West, for a long time I had had a very romantic idea of Tibet as a mystical, fantasy land. When, before the Beijing Olympics, somebody asked me what I thought about the riots in Lhasa, I realized I didn't really know anything about the past or the present reality in Tibet! This made me decide to start learning about the history and the current reality in Tibet.
Contrary to the romantic idea prevalent in the West, I learned that before 1959 Tibet had been a feudal, almost medieval society, where serfs were bound to their masters' land and to their accumulating, hereditary debts to the landowners; slaves could be bought and sold and their hands could be lopped off or eyes gouged out for almost any offence against their masters from the small nobility class.
There were no schools besides religious teachings in the monasteries and very few people could read or write.
I also learned how Tibet had been used as a geopolitical pawn by foreign powers, especially the United Kingdom, and the CIA for destabilization efforts during the Cold War.
This summer I finally had a chance to go to Tibet and see the reality with my own eyes.
My first impressions, arriving on the comfortable Qinghai-Tibet train, was that the scenery was very much like Bolivia, a country also at some 3,000-4,000 meters above the sea level, and which I have known well for over 30 years. Profoundly blue skies, searing sunshine and the solemn emptiness of the high plateau!
But after arriving in Lhasa, I started to see the differences. In Bolivia, from the development point of view, everything is almost as it was when I first arrived there 30 years ago: very little has changed in terms of cityscape or the overwhelming poverty of people's lives. However, when I arrived at the train station in Lhasa, I was impressed by the new infrastructure that is now linking Tibet to the rest of the world with very modern means of transportation: the high-altitude train, and four modern airports in different parts of Tibet.
I was of course in awe to see all the pilgrims in front of the Jokhang Temple prostrate themselves in pilgrimage, and by the imposing Potala Palace that has housed the Dalai Lamas and their secular governments since the 7th century.
You could feel the importance of religion for the Tibetan people in so many ways, and in ways I have not seen elsewhere in the world.
