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Designers look to past for inspiration: Paris fashion week
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E-mail CNTV, March 6, 2012
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Models present creations by Moroccan-born Israeli designer Alber Elbaz for Lanvin during the Fall/Winter 2012-2013 ready-to-wear collection show in Paris. |
Instead of bowing, a joyful Elbaz took a microphone to the stage and, admitting he couldn't sing, attempted a rendition of 'Que sera sera.'
Alber Elbaz said, "I always said that when I came to Lanvin that I'm actually dressing women, I'm not doing it for magazine, I'm not doing it for editor, because editor are women. I love women, but I'm afraid of editors, but women I adore. Enjoy the party darling."
Octogenarian Sonia Rykiel looked on from the front row Friday at her fall-winter ready-to-wear show that the program notes said went back to the "effervescent seventies." But the collection, designed by the new creative director April Crichton, seemed more timeless than anything else.
A black-and-white skirt suit opened the show, followed by trompe l'oeil shirtdresses with revamped 1950s headbands and a showcasing of tight Edwardian-era collars - a new feature in the house's normally more casual style.
Stricter than previous shows it may have been, but the sageness of higher necklines and lower hems was shot down in many pieces with cheeky flesh-baring cutouts - a wink from a house that prides itself on nonchalance.
Victorian midnight was the theme in a romantic fall-winter ready-to-wear collection from Viktor & Rolf, strong on evening wear, high-collared furs and even the odd "bed wear" piece.
Surprises were on display with fluid, metal-sheen silhouettes based on pajamas. But in sumptuous printed satin-silk, it would be a waste to just wear them to hit the sack.
An in-vogue Edwardian edge defined many evening wear looks with overgrown-sleeved slip dresses, and feather-light tulle gowns paired up with glass embroidery and silk fringing.
